Akti

Akti sits on the Finger Wharf at Woolloomooloo, open to the harbour along one side, so the room fills with water light through lunch and glows at night. The kitchen works Wednesday to Sunday: lunch from midday, dinner from six.

Almost everything is cooked over fire. Head Chef Robert Judd bakes the pita through service, grills the seafood, and sends out lamb shoulder still smoking. Mezze come first, for the table. Greek whites carry the wine list, Assyrtiko chief among them, and Baraki, the bar next door, keeps to Greek spirits and cocktails.

Akti works for a crowd as well as a couple. Parties of eight to twenty-four order from a banquet sharing menu, and there is a private dining room for a smaller table.